Best Jigsaw for Cutting Curves: Six Saws Worth Comparing

Cutting a clean circle into a tabletop, scribing a countertop to a wavy wall, or tracing a scalloped edge on a shelf all expose the same weakness in a jigsaw: a saw that wanders off the line leaves a ragged edge that no amount of sanding fully hides. For curved work, the best jigsaw is not simply the most powerful one. It is the saw that follows a pencil mark with a narrow blade, tight control, and a footprint that lets you see the line.

This guide covers six jigsaws from Bosch, DEWALT, Makita, and Milwaukee, split between cordless and corded designs. The first group of sections explains what to check on any model, such as handle style, orbital settings, and blade type. The picks that follow stick to what the names state, so confirm stroke rates and weights on the maker’s page. As of 2026, both corded and battery saws remain solid options, and the right one depends mostly on where you work.

Quick Picks

How to Choose

Pick the handle style for the work you do

Top-handle saws put your hand over the saw, which gives leverage for pushing through thick stock. Barrel-grip saws keep your hand close to the blade line, which many people find easier for steering through tight arcs. A good rule of thumb: if most of your cuts are in material thinner than an inch and curved, try a barrel grip; for long straight cuts with occasional curves, a top handle is fine.

Look for orbital settings and a variable speed trigger

Orbital action pushes the blade forward on the upstroke for faster cuts in thick wood. Turn it off for curves, because aggressive orbit makes the blade wander. Look for at least three or four orbit positions, including zero, plus a variable speed trigger so you can slow down on tight turns. A saw without a zero setting is a poor choice for scroll work.

Match the blade to the curve

Narrow blades turn tighter radii. For a curve with a radius under about two inches, use a scrolling or narrow-profile blade rather than a wide general-purpose one. Fine-tooth blades with 10 or more teeth per inch give smoother edges in plywood and laminate, while coarse teeth around 6 per inch cut faster in solid lumber but tear thin veneers.

Decide between cordless and corded

A cordless saw is quicker to set up and easier to carry on a ladder, but runtime depends on your battery. If you already own batteries in a given system, buy a bare tool in the same family. A corded saw avoids battery cost and gives steady output for long sessions at a bench, so it suits a fixed shop where outlets are close.

Our Picks Reviewed

DEWALT DCS331B 20V MAX Jig Saw

The DEWALT DCS331B is a cordless jig saw built for the 20V MAX battery platform, which makes it a convenient add-on for anyone already carrying DEWALT tools.

• Pro: A cordless design lets you move freely around a workpiece, which helps when you need to rotate your body to follow a large curve.
• Pro: If you already own 20V MAX batteries, the B suffix, which usually means bare tool, keeps the purchase focused on the saw itself.
• Con: A bare tool will not run until you add a battery and charger, so new users to the system face a bigger first purchase.

Skip it if you work in a shop with outlets everywhere and no existing battery tools, because a corded saw can be simpler and more economical for you. Also skip it if you prefer a barrel grip, since the buying details here point to a standard top-handle layout.

Bosch JS470E Top-Handle Jig Saw

The JS470E is a corded Bosch jig saw with a top handle, a classic format for general woodworking and remodeling tasks that include occasional curves.

• Pro: Corded power means there is no battery to charge, so long countertop cutouts will not be interrupted by a dead pack.
• Pro: A top-handle layout gives leverage and a stable stance, which helps when pushing a blade through thicker boards.
• Con: The cord can drag across your workpiece or catch on clamps, which is a nuisance when you rotate the saw through a tight arc.

Skip it if you often work on ladders, roofs, or outdoor jobs with no power nearby, since a cordless saw will be easier to manage in those places. Anyone who mainly cuts delicate scroll patterns in thin stock might also prefer a barrel-grip style for better line visibility.

Makita XVJ03Z 18V LXT Jig Saw

The XVJ03Z is a Makita cordless jig saw sold for the 18V LXT battery system, a long-running platform with many compatible tools.

• Pro: The LXT name signals compatibility with Makita’s broad 18V battery family, so existing owners can reuse packs and chargers.
• Pro: A cordless saw lets you cut curves without worrying about a cord snagging on the edge of a bench or sawhorse.
• Con: The Z suffix typically means tool only, so anyone starting from scratch must buy a battery and charger separately.

Skip it if your other tools use a different battery brand, because maintaining two battery systems adds cost and clutter. It is also not the right choice for those who want an all-in-one kit with a case ready in the box on day one.

Milwaukee 2737-20 M18 FUEL Jig Saw

The 2737-20 is a cordless Milwaukee jig saw from the M18 FUEL range, which the brand positions as its higher performance cordless tier.

• Pro: Being part of the M18 system means you can share batteries with a large range of Milwaukee drills, saws, and lights.
• Pro: The FUEL name points to the brand’s premium cordless line, which usually appeals to professional trades users.
• Con: The -20 suffix typically indicates a bare tool, so the upfront cost rises if you have no M18 batteries.

Skip it if you cut only a few curves a year for hobby projects, because a premium cordless saw may be more tool than you need. Casual users on a tight budget are usually better served by a simpler corded saw they can buy once.

Makita 4329 Orbital Jig Saw

The Makita 4329 is a corded orbital jig saw, a plain, no-nonsense design aimed at shop users who want predictable control at the bench.

• Pro: Orbital action is named right in the product title, so you can use it for faster cuts in thicker stock and switch it off for curves.
• Pro: Corded operation keeps weight and complexity down, since there is no battery pack to balance in your hand.
• Con: A cord limits where you can work, and extension cords can add resistance and clutter around the cutting area.

Skip it if you need to cut outdoors or in rooms without convenient outlets, such as a half-built deck or a remote job site. Anyone invested in a cordless platform may also prefer to stay within that battery family.

Bosch JS572EK Barrel-Grip Jig Saw

The JS572EK is a Bosch barrel-grip jig saw sold as a kit, an appealing choice for people who want closer hand placement for steering through curves.

• Pro: A barrel-grip layout keeps your hand lower and closer to the blade line, which many woodworkers find helpful on tight scrolling cuts.
• Pro: The K in the model code commonly indicates a kit, so a carrying case or accessories may be included for storage and transport.
• Con: Barrel-grip saws can feel less natural for pushing hard through thick stock, since you have less top-down leverage.

Skip it if most of your work is straight cuts through thick lumber, because a top-handle saw gives you more downward pressure and a more conventional feel. Left-handed users should also confirm that the grip suits their hand before ordering.

Which One Fits

• Already own DEWALT 20V batteries: the DCS331B slots straight in.
• Already own Makita 18V LXT batteries: the XVJ03Z is the natural add-on.
• Working on an M18 platform in the trades: the Milwaukee 2737-20 M18 FUEL is the matching choice.
• Bench-based shop, no battery system: the Bosch JS470E or Makita 4329 avoid battery cost altogether.
• Mostly scrolling and tight arcs: try the Bosch JS572EK barrel-grip.
• Storing tools on the job: a rugged jobsite box keeps blades and bare tools together, and a lightweight hard hat is a sensible companion for overhead work.

If two saws seem equal, let your workflow decide. A person who cuts curves for a few minutes at a time and then moves on will enjoy a cordless saw, while a person who spends an afternoon on a single large cutout will appreciate steady corded power. Whichever you pick, buy a small assortment of narrow blades at the same time, because the stock blade is rarely the best choice for scrolling.

Common Mistakes

1. Leaving orbital action on a high setting while cutting curves, which makes the blade drift away from the line.
2. Using a wide, general-purpose blade for a tight radius instead of a narrow scrolling blade.
3. Forcing the saw forward, which bends the blade and produces a beveled, not square, edge.
4. Skipping clamps, so the workpiece vibrates and the cut chatters.
5. Buying a bare-tool cordless saw without checking that you own a compatible battery and charger.

FAQ

What blade is best for cutting curves?

A narrow blade, often labeled scroll or curve cutting, turns tighter than a wide blade. Match the teeth to the material: fine for plywood and laminate, coarser for solid wood.

Should I turn off orbital action for curves?

In most cases, yes. Setting orbit to zero gives a cleaner, more controlled cut and keeps the blade tracking your line.

Is a cordless jigsaw good enough for curves?

Yes, as long as the battery has enough charge for the job. Many people prefer cordless because there is no cord to drag across the pencil line.

How do I avoid splintering on the top face?

Apply masking tape along the cut line, use a fine-tooth blade, and cut with the good face down when the blade cuts on the upstroke.

Where should I store blades and bare tools?

A dedicated jobsite box works well, and our lightweight hard hat guide covers head protection for overhead jobs.