Best Cruiser Handlebars: Five Bar Styles for Comfort and Looks

Anyone who has spent a full afternoon on a stock cruiser knows the feeling: shoulders creeping forward, wrists bent at an odd angle, and a growing urge to change something. Handlebars are the cheapest way to change how a cruiser fits your body and how it looks from the saddle, which is why bar swaps are one of the most common first modifications. The trick is choosing a shape that matches your arm length, riding posture, and the clearance your bike actually has.

This guide lists five bar families from two well-known custom brands, Biltwell and Burly Brand. Details here are limited to what each name tells you, so treat the buying rules below as your checklist for diameter, rise, pullback, and cable length before you spend anything. As of 2026, the old advice still holds: sit on the bike, mimic the new grip position with a tape measure, and only then order.

Quick Picks

How to Choose

Confirm the clamp diameter first

Most American cruisers use one-inch bars, while many sport and imported models use seven-eighths of an inch. The bar diameter has to match your controls, risers, and clamps exactly. Measure the bar at the grip area with calipers or a ruler on the existing bar before shopping, because an inch-and-a-quarter bar will not fit a one-inch riser no matter how good it looks.

Match rise and pullback to your arm length

Rise is how far the grips sit above the clamp, and pullback is how far they sit back toward you. A useful rule of thumb: riders with shorter arms want more pullback, while taller riders can handle flatter, wider shapes. Aim for a slight bend in the elbows with hands on the grips and the bike upright. Locked arms mean the bars are too far away, and raised shoulders mean they are too tall.

Account for cable and brake line length

Taller or wider bars stretch cables, hoses, and wiring. As a guideline, adding a couple of inches of rise generally needs longer throttle cables, and a bigger change may need a longer brake line or clutch cable. Check whether your bike has an electronic throttle, since that changes the rules. Plan to replace lines rather than reuse stretched ones.

Check for steering lock clearance and fit

Before tightening anything, turn the bars lock to lock. The handlebar should clear the tank, gauges, and fairing at full turn, and your fingers should clear the tank when gripping the levers. Wide bars add leverage at low speed, so test them in a parking lot. Look for a finish that matches your hardware, whether black, chrome, or raw steel.

Our Picks Reviewed

Biltwell Gen 3 Moto Bar

The Biltwell Gen 3 Moto Bar is a third-generation take on a Moto-style bar from a brand that focuses on custom riders.

• Pro: A numbered generation suggests the shape has been refined, which can mean fewer surprises in how the bar sits on the bike.
• Pro: Moto-style bars tend to give an upright, controlled position that works for commuting as well as weekend rides.
• Con: A single shape cannot suit every arm length, so shorter riders may find the reach longer than they prefer.

Skip it if you want a deep pullback for a laid-back riding stance, or if your cables are already near their limit. Riders who cannot test-fit before buying should also be wary, since the geometry has to match their body. Owners who plan to keep stock cables and hoses untouched should also confirm that the rise stays modest, because small changes are the ones that bolt on cleanly.

Biltwell Tracker Bars

The Biltwell Tracker Bars borrow their name from flat-track styling, which usually means a lower, wider, more sporty hand position.

• Pro: A flatter design generally leaves the rider leaning slightly forward, which can feel more connected to the front end.
• Pro: The wider look suits stripped-down custom bikes and keeps controls easy to reach.
• Con: A sporty lean can put more weight on the wrists during long highway stretches than a relaxed bar would.

Skip it if comfort on multi-hour rides is your top priority, or if you carry a passenger and prefer an upright posture. Riders with wrist or shoulder discomfort will likely be happier with a taller, pulled-back option. A flat, wide bar also asks for more room in a crowded garage or a tight parking spot, so measure your space before you commit.

Biltwell Beach Bars

The Biltwell Beach Bars use a beach-cruiser inspiration, pointing toward a relaxed, swept-back shape rather than a sporty one.

• Pro: Beach-style bars are associated with a comfortable, open-chested riding position that reduces forward lean.
• Pro: The shape suits cruisers and customs where looks matter as much as ergonomics.
• Con: Swept-back shapes can feel less precise at speed, which matters if your riding includes spirited curves.

Skip it if you want aggressive handling or a tight, compact cockpit. Riders with limited garage clearance should also check width, because a relaxed shape is often broader than the stock bar. Riders who filter through traffic regularly will notice that extra width quickly, and the added leverage can feel heavy at walking speed in a parking lot or driveway.

Burly Brand Slammer Bars

The Burly Brand Slammer Bars point toward a slammed, low-profile look, and the brand name signals a custom-bike focus.

• Pro: Lower bars can sharpen the visual lines of a custom build and make a bike feel lean and purposeful.
• Pro: A distinct custom brand makes it easier to find matching accessories and style cues for a themed build.
• Con: A slammed position generally puts more weight on the hands, which can tire arms on longer rides.

Skip it if you are tall, ride long distances, or share the bike with a smaller rider who needs different reach. Anyone sensitive to numb hands should choose something taller. Slammed bars also leave less room for aftermarket gauges or mirrors, so riders with a crowded cockpit should plan the layout on paper before ordering.

Burly Brand Beach Bars

The Burly Brand Beach Bars add a second beach-style option to the list, focused on laid-back cruising rather than aggression.

• Pro: The beach category usually favors a relaxed hand position that suits short rides to the shop or café.
• Pro: Comparing two brands within the same style gives you room to pick on finish and fit rather than on shape alone.
• Con: Relaxed shapes can add width and rise, which may demand longer cables and a bit of extra routing work.

Skip it if you want a low, tucked cockpit or have tight tank clearance. Riders who dislike swapping cables should also steer clear, since the extra rise often adds that chore. Those on a tight budget for the whole project should also remember that new lines, grips, and a shop visit can outweigh the cost of the bar itself.

Which One Fits

• Upright commuting with a classic custom look: Biltwell Gen 3 Moto Bar.
• Low, sporty seating on a stripped-down build: Biltwell Tracker Bars or Burly Brand Slammer Bars.
• Comfort-first cruising and short trips: Biltwell Beach Bars or Burly Brand Beach Bars.
• Riders unsure about reach: mock up the position with a tape measure before committing to any of these.

A practical way to narrow the field is to pick posture first and brand second. Decide whether you want to sit tall, neutral, or leaning forward, then choose the bar family that names that posture. Two bars from different brands in the same style will usually feel closer to each other than two bars of different styles from the same brand.

It also helps to decide how much extra work you will tolerate. A bar that keeps your stock cable routing is a one-evening job. A taller or wider bar can turn into a weekend of cable swaps, line bleeding, and new mirrors, which is fine when planned and frustrating when it is a surprise.

Common Mistakes

• Ordering a bar without confirming whether the bike uses seven-eighths or one-inch clamps.
• Ignoring cable, hose, and wiring length until the bars are already on the bike.
• Copying a friend’s setup even though arm length and torso proportions differ.
• Skipping a lock-to-lock check, which leads to tank rub and scratched paint.
• Over-tightening clamps, which can dent or crush the bar at the mounting point.

FAQ

Do new handlebars require longer cables?

Often yes. Extra rise or width stretches throttle, clutch, and brake lines. A couple of extra inches of rise commonly means longer cables, and electronic throttles need different handling.

Can I install bars at home?

Most riders can, using basic hand tools and a torque wrench for clamp bolts. Brake line work is the part worth a professional second look.

Where should I look for weekend project ideas beyond the garage?

A clean workspace helps. Our guide to the best crown stapler covers a handy shop tool, and if you are watching ride videos afterward, see the best device to stream DirecTV Now list.

How do I know the bar fits my posture?

Sit on the bike, hold a tape measure at the proposed grip position, and check for a slight elbow bend with the bike upright and your shoulders relaxed. If the tape measure puts your hands noticeably higher than your elbows, the rise is probably too much, and if your arms feel stretched at full reach, you need more pullback rather than more height.

Should I replace grips at the same time?

It is a sensible moment to do it, because new grips seat easily on bare bars and you avoid removing hardware twice. Match the grip inside diameter to the bar type, and use fresh grip adhesive or safety wire so nothing spins under throttle.